SPECIAL SERIES: The Secret to the "Cool Girl" Silhouette: Mastering Barrel, Balloon, and Architectural Pants- Part 1
The A-Z of Architectural & Voluminous Pants
As a personal stylist for women, I’m getting lots of questions about all the new voluminous pant styles. What’s the difference? How can I wear them? Do I look cool or is this just ridiculous? What style should I buy and where do I find the right pair?
Enter our three part series on architectural pants. If you’re ready to try this voluminous style but your major reference point is baggies plus a tight top, I’ve got you.
Here we go.
Architectural Vs. Flowy
Architectural pants use heavy-weight fabric and specific seaming to hold a shape that doesn't rely on the body underneath it.
5 Voluminous Pant Styles That Are Dying to Get Into Your Closet
Curved Leg/ Architectural Leg
Engineered Volume: It has the precision of Structural volume but often uses the lighter, more wearable fabrics found in Draped volume.
What are they?
Anything with a slightly (or more extreme) bowed leg, typically a three panel construction. (Notice how these pop out between the knee and the ankle). The shape comes from smart tailoring rather than just "baggy fabric."
Widest Point: The Mid-Leg (Knee to Calf).
Personal Style Key Words: Intellectual, Avant-garde, Structural
Who’s Doing it Right?
The Master: Roucha I like to think of these as Architectural Minimalist. And honestly, I’m just completely enamored with this brand. It’s no surprise as Jill Wenger, the creative genius behind it, was also the visionary behind a now closed, but deeply beloved, Seattle boutique- Totokaelo.
I also love the leg on several pairs from Ruti.
Stylist’s Tip:
As an added bonus, both offer a shorter length pant. It’s a super practical way to keep your pant legs from getting wet in the rain. Furthermore, a shorter length is an ideal hack to pair them more easily with shoes and to find a flattering fit. Struggling with fit? This post is for you.
Available in short or full lengths and multiple colors. Architectural leg pants. Independent designer. Ethically Sourced. Super soft sweatpants. I have these and am obsessed with them.
Available in short or full lengths and multiple colors. Architectural leg pants. Independent designer. Ethically Sourced. I have these and am obsessed with them.
Loving these 90’s inspired Fisherman jellies available in 34 colors! Pair them with architectural pants for the win.
Liking those jellies? One of my clients, Julie, recommended Melissa’s jellies in the Poplin Client Membership earlier this month. (Our exclusive client membership will open up again in March, 2026.) I discovered the brand years ago at a boutique in New Orleans. Fortunately, Julie brought them back onto my radar. The brand has fun, reasonably priced shoes that also smell yummy. Here’s a pair of jellies for the win. These are available in 34 colors!
Available in standard length or petite and multiple colors. Independent Designer. Wrinkle resistant and machine washable. This have been a big hit with clients.
The Sarouel/ Saroual
Draped Volume
What are they?
While many of us grew up calling these “drop crotch” or “harem pants,” the modern world of style has evolved. Today, we look at these through a more architectural lens—calling them Sarouels or Lantern Pants. It’s less about the 'costume' of the past and more about the structural, avant-garde shapes of the future.
Widest Point: Hips and Upper Thigh
Personal Style Words: Bohemian, Non-Conformist, Effortless
Who’s Doing it Right?
Shout out to powerhouse Eileen Fisher who’s been selling her Lantern pants for years.
Stylist’s Tip: If you’re searching online, you should definitely include all names (Sarouel, Saroul, Harem Pants, Drop Crotch) in your searches to ensure the best results. Also, if you’re tempted to try this style but are hesitant to invest in it, pick up a pair of second hand Lantern pants from Eileen Fisher. Eileen Fisher Renew is a groundbreaking retailer offering pre-worn pieces from the brand’s employees for resale to the public. We also have a Renew store in Seattle’s Columbia City neighborhood. And of course, you can find them online.
Sarouels/ Architectural leg sweatpants. Available in multiple super hip color combinations and two lengths. I always like the short leg and here’s why. Ethically made. Independent designer. I have these and am obsessed with them.
Sarouels/ Architectural leg nylon pants. Available in two colors and great for travel. Independent designer. Ethically made. I have these! While they aren’t waterproof, the nylon is great in the light rain and lightweight for travel.
Sustainable curved leg lantern pants available up to size 3X and in petite sizes. Clients have enjoyed these for years.
Sustainable classic lantern pants available up to size 3X and in petite sizes. Ponte material, soft and functional.Clients have enjoyed these for years.
Balloon Pants
Draped Volume
What are they?
These tend to be softer than the architectural styles on this list. Balloon pants have volume gathered at the waist and the hem. Sometimes there is a tie or elastic, other times, the hemline is simply tight at the ankle. They tend to be more voluminous across the whole leg compared with barrel pants, but truly, the names seem to be used interchangeably, depending on the brand.
Widest point: Mid thigh
Personal Style Words: Romantic, Airy, Soft
Who’s doing it right?
You’ll usually be able to find a pair of boho leaning balloon pants at Free People. But if you are more inclined to the minimalist approach or something that feels luxurious and special, check out Jaki London . Designed in London and made in Italy, this brand can make a balloon pant look gorgeous rather than costume-y.
Stylist’s Tip:
If barrel pants are a reach for you, balloon pants are going to feel much further out of your comfort zone. Making sure to really commit to your style math to balance your body type is one approach. Alternatively, a heel will make a HUGE difference in helping them feel more feminine and flattering. A shorter length will pair more easily with flats, as you can see in my photo below.
Designed in London. Made in Italy. These Balloon Satin Trousers are available in multiple colors up to size 12.
Cotton twill cropped balloon pants at a great price.
Silky, expressive balloon pants. Available up to size XL.
While I’ve been wearing barrel pants for a couple of years, I didn’t dive into balloon pants until early fall with this pair from Zara. They are more extreme than barrel pants, so styling is key. They are ideal with this go-to one shoulder sweatshirt and more feminine with a heel. But this is a practical everyday approach that works for me. (P.S. I have a triangle shaped figure, so having the white, loose-fitting off the shoulder sweatshirt is essential. I’m wearing them with these Birkenstocks.
Barrel Pants/ Horseshoe Jeans
Structural Volume
What are they?
Barrel pants curve from the hip and taper at the ankle. They typically have a flat front, tapered or darted hem.
Widest point: The Knee.
Personal Style Words: Avant-garde, Architectural, Rugged
Who’s Doing it Right?
My favorite pair of affordable barrel jeans continue to be from Abercrombie and Fitch. Of course, I opted for the short length. I also adore the Pistola High Waist Barrel Jeans.
Stylist’s Tip: As stripes are the gateway into prints, barrel pants are the gateway into more voluminous pants- especially weirder versions. I found lots of success pairing them with something voluminous on top in cold weather- always doing the French tuck (or opting for a cropped choice) to create an extreme hourglass silhouette. If this look is a big departure for you, try your first adventure with someone you trust and who will be supportive of you. (Continuum has been a real gift for this sort of experimentation. Or get a similar benefit with a circle of fashionable friends.) This is not the time to try a new style with your more critical crowd. As you get more comfortable, keep pushing yourself until you find the right mix of volume and creative styling. You can do it!
No longer available in black, these have been my go-to jeans for several months. Mine are short length to get the advantages of an ankle length pant. Also, my Sandy LIang x Gap jacket is sold out but it’s available second hand. And these are my flatform clogs.
Barrel jeans available up to size 16 and in multiple washes and colors. Ethically sourced.
Barrel jeans available in multiple colors and petite, regular and tall.
I hemmed these metallic barrel jeans to ankle length perfection.
Extra Wide Leg Barrel Jeans
Structural Volume
What are they?
Similar to a barrel jean but only slightly tapered at the ankle. The fabric is stiff and unwashed, meaning the barrel shape is incredibly pronounced and won't wilt.
Widest Point:
The Lower Knee/ Mid-Shin
Personal Style Key Words:
Edgy, Fashion-Forward, Industrial
Who’s Doing it Right?
Studio Nicholson (for men and women) has a “fabric first philosophy” with gorgeous craftsmanship and items built to last. The brand also has a Japanese-inspired aesthetic that really speaks to me.
Stylist’s Tip:
Yes! Giant pants are tricky to style. Not to worry. Remember that pants that are only a size larger to offer flexibility as your weight fluctuates (ex: wearing a 10 and buying a 12), will make you look larger than you are. The goal is an obviously baggy fit (so your body is a mystery) or a more fitted pant in a flattering cut (that celebrates your shape). Choose to wear volume up top and create a waist or something form fitting up top. Remember to use Style Math to balance your frame, depending on your body type.
Studio Nicholson is nailing the voluminous pant trend with Japanese Streetwear cool-kid vibes.
Available up to size 14. Super wide leg cropped barrel pants. I have these and am wearing them constantly!
I am obsessed with these extra wide barrel denim pants and sometimes pair with a voluminous top tucked in to create a waist and balance my Triangle frame. If I’m feeling frumpy or bottom-heavy, I add knee high gold boots.
Alternatively, I love oversized everything- when the shapes feel effortless, not sloppy. I’ve got the same boxy silk top with a cashmere sweater, platform sneakers, metallic socks and a great bag.
For a closer look- these metallic socks have made the finishing touches of so many outfits truly effortless. I have them in silver and gold.
Extra wide leg denim pants with crochet detailing for a feminine twist.
So many of my clients love a bold tiger print. These can be dressed up for work or worn as high impact loungewear at home.
Beautiful craftsmanship makes these super wide leg pants a true show stopper. No need to travel to London, you can pick these up online.
Now that you have an understanding of the various types of voluminous pants including both structural and draped volume, it’s time to learn how to style these shapes in ways that feel authentic to your personal style AND flatter your frame. Get ready for Part 2.
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